It was restored but unfortunately while the
restoration provided a glimpse of history much of the truth seemed missing. The
central palace too had undergone major modern refurbishment hinting at a
contradiction in terms of maintaining architectural heritage….
Arriving at
a bustling bus terminal correctly indicates this as the second largest city, Cordoba.
The university town near the middle of Argentina close to the entrance of the
wine country is built across flat fields of an agricultural economy. Stepping
first onto the main street circling the city the yellow taxis mark an emblem
for Cordoba. An army of these yellow vehicles line every street and prepare for
onslaught at each junction.
On initial
inspection among semi-rise new builds and spontaneous coffee bars are grandiose
buildings marking Argentine heritage – a mix of historic cultures paraded
around the main square – Plaza San Martin. By 9am the day’s heat is evidently
creeping towards the 30’s as locals reach for the shade cigarette in hand on
the way to work.
Like any
cosmopolitan city the population strides smart phone in hand, slurping on
juice, Coke or 7Up with the odd citizen chomping ice-cream and snacks.
Clearly a
shopping centre – Argentine’s wonder the streets among avenue after avenue of
electronic, clothes, shows and most importantly sunglasses shops. The centre is
built around a network of 4 x4 streets of shops.
We strolled the
city discovering the architectural heritage of Cordoba, recognising the mix of
influences across two centuries of Western European origin. While many
structures looked impressive, a closer inspection identified the cracks of a
quick makeover. A Jesuit Crypt discovered in 1989 when a telecom company dug to
place new lines – it was restored but unfortunately while the restoration
provided a glimpse of history much of the truth seemed missing. The central
palace too had undergone major modern refurbishment hinting at a contradiction
in terms of maintaining architectural heritage.
The
sun-blazes here in Cordoba, but small lanes criss-crossing in a grid system
lined with buildings 3 – 4 floors high provided ample protection from the sun’s
heat. North of the central plaza the streets beamed with excited shoppers – for
me one of the largest shopping districts, more shops than many malls in Europe.
A break from
the long city trek to rest our feet by a French bar – I hoped to enjoy the
famous Argentine custom of Mate – instead presented with a cup a saucer and
mate tea bag. It seems in 7 days traditional mate is off limits to tourists.
Time to behave more like a traveller me thinks!
The evening
took us to a local and historic Paradilla, established in 1906, together with
our new friend Raul for whom we met at Iguaçu. He too was staying at The Aldea
Hostel – funnily enough in the next dorm to us. The Paradilla served us a beef
de chorizo, the size of two fists lovingly marinated and browned over hot
coals. Accompanied by Argentine tinto y blanco wine from Mendoza country. http://www.aldeahostel.com/
After the
long red-eye drive from Resistencia I was shagged – the day was over for me as
my head willingly led me to my final resting place for the day – Casa 109.
COSTS:
Aldea
Hostel: AR$220 (2 nights) http://www.aldeahostel.com/
Bag of
Laundry: AR$18
Visit the
crypt: AR$2
Visit Palace
Museuo: AR$3
A Pair of
Sunglasses: AR$115
